Olympic Sport Climbing Day 1： Results, Highlights & Insights || Latest Update
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2024-08-07
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The highly anticipated return of sport climbing at the summer Olympics is finally here. We’re dropped right into the action on day 1, with the men’s boulder semi-final and the women’s speed qualification and elimination rounds.
The boulder semi-final was a low-scoring affair and for a while, the audience might have feared they’d see no tops. However, commentator Shauna Coxsey some kind of curse with the hopeful line “I think we’re going to see some tops”. Jakob Schubert must have heard her, because he managed to record the first top on his first boulder. At the close of the semi-final, the tally was only 6 tops made on 80 attempts of the 20 athletes each trying 4 boulders.
Jakob Schubert, Adam Ondra, Sam Avézou, Toby Roberts and Tomoa Narasaki all made one top and Sorato Anraku managed to get two. Needless to say, those sends put them at the top of the leaderboard and created some serious distance from climbers without tops, who will have their work cut out for them on Wednesday, when they tackle the lead wall.
The seeding round of the Women’s speed event started with some technical difficulties. In the first two races of the seeding round, one of two clocks that climbers have to hit at the top of the wall to finish their run, didn’t work. After about 15 minutes of troubleshooting and repairs, Chinese climber Zhou Yafei and Indonesian athlete Desak Made Made Rita Kusuma Dewi had to reclimb their first seeding time.
Things went fast once the competition was under way, and the Tokyo Olympic record of 6.84 seconds, held by Aleksandra Miroslaw, got destroyed instantly and repeatedly. In quick succession, Zhou Yafei, Desak Made Made Rita Kusuma Dewi and US climber Emma Hunt pushed the Olympic record down. Yafei from 6.84 to 6.54, Desak Made pushed it to 6.52 and Emma Hunt to 6.36.
But next up was world record holder Aleksandra Miroslaw and she went on to not only push the brand-new Olympic Record of Emma Hunt down some more, she broke her own world record that previously stood at 6.24 by climbing the speed route in 6.21 seconds in the first lane and in 6.06 seoncd in the second lane. She clearly came here with her eyes set on the gold medal and she’ll be tough to beat.
After the seeding round, the roster for the elims was set. Miroslaw was up first and sent South Africa’s Aniya Holder packing with a 6.10 second run. Emma Hunt stayed consistent and progressed over Manon Lebon. Next, Polish climber Aleksandra Kalucka beat New Zealand’s Sarah Tetzlaff. There was no upset just yet and in the next heat Yafei beat Beatrice Colli. However, the times in these heats got closer and closer together, but still, Deng beat Viglione in the next heat. Made Rita Kusuma Dewi, the current world champ, sent the USA’s Piper Kelly home in a close call
The highly anticipated return of sport climbing at the summer Olympics is finally here. We’re dropped right into the action on day 1, with the men’s boulder semi-final and the women’s speed qualification and elimination rounds.
The boulder semi-final was a low-scoring affair and for a while, the audience might have feared they’d see no tops. However, commentator Shauna Coxsey some kind of curse with the hopeful line “I think we’re going to see some tops”. Jakob Schubert must have heard her, because he managed to record the first top on his first boulder. At the close of the semi-final, the tally was only 6 tops made on 80 attempts of the 20 athletes each trying 4 boulders.
Jakob Schubert, Adam Ondra, Sam Avézou, Toby Roberts and Tomoa Narasaki all made one top and Sorato Anraku managed to get two. Needless to say, those sends put them at the top of the leaderboard and created some serious distance from climbers without tops, who will have their work cut out for them on Wednesday, when they tackle the lead wall.
The seeding round of the Women’s speed event started with some technical difficulties. In the first two races of the seeding round, one of two clocks that climbers have to hit at the top of the wall to finish their run, didn’t work. After about 15 minutes of troubleshooting and repairs, Chinese climber Zhou Yafei and Indonesian athlete Desak Made Made Rita Kusuma Dewi had to reclimb their first seeding time.
Things went fast once the competition was under way, and the Tokyo Olympic record of 6.84 seconds, held by Aleksandra Miroslaw, got destroyed instantly and repeatedly. In quick succession, Zhou Yafei, Desak Made Made Rita Kusuma Dewi and US climber Emma Hunt pushed the Olympic record down. Yafei from 6.84 to 6.54, Desak Made pushed it to 6.52 and Emma Hunt to 6.36.
But next up was world record holder Aleksandra Miroslaw and she went on to not only push the brand-new Olympic Record of Emma Hunt down some more, she broke her own world record that previously stood at 6.24 by climbing the speed route in 6.21 seconds in the first lane and in 6.06 seoncd in the second lane. She clearly came here with her eyes set on the gold medal and she’ll be tough to beat.
After the seeding round, the roster for the elims was set. Miroslaw was up first and sent South Africa’s Aniya Holder packing with a 6.10 second run. Emma Hunt stayed consistent and progressed over Manon Lebon. Next, Polish climber Aleksandra Kalucka beat New Zealand’s Sarah Tetzlaff. There was no upset just yet and in the next heat Yafei beat Beatrice Colli. However, the times in these heats got closer and closer together, but still, Deng beat Viglione in the next heat. Made Rita Kusuma Dewi, the current world champ, sent the USA’s Piper Kelly home in a close call
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