Yes, it is really Ramallah. At the Snowbar club, no one was talking about the Palestinian-Israeli conflict, they were too focused on the music. Ramallah, in the West Bank doesn't have the holy mystique of Bethlehem, but it has become a destination for thousands of young North Americans, Europeans and offspring of the Palestinian elite. Some work for locally based non-governmental organizations or new businesses; others are visiting. Many of the hot spots are set in restored Ottoman buildings, streamlined Art Deco houses that date from the British mandate, or atop new high-rises. Some residents say the scene is an undiscovered challenge to what Jerusalem, Tel Aviv and Amman, Jordan offer young people in the Middle East.