The clothes themselves prompted a less-modern discussion - riffing on all the usual Westwood chords, from Dickensian boy-girls to Elizabethan corseted maidens. Exaggerated Dior New Look silhouettes - short boxy jackets and swingy skirts - set a demure tone, amplified by the low-heeled shoes, shoulder-tied cardigans and land girl-style headscarves.