Women stitching Chikankari embroidery of Uttar Pradesh, India
WildFilmsIndia
2014-08-12
Views 1
Embroidery of Uttar Pradesh carries the affluence of cultural legacy that are displayed in each form of arts and crafts of this state. The famous embroidery work of Uttar Pradesh is Chikan embroidery that is known for its exquisite artistic superiority all over the world. The very word `chikan` is derived from the Persian word `chikaan` meaning drapery. Chikan embroidery, the superior embroidery work of Uttar Pradesh was originated in Lucknow.
The embroidery of Uttar Pradesh includes several processes and stitches that are needed to make the embroidery work a unique piece. The `bel` or creeper is the most commonly used design. The artisans prefer to create individual motifs or `butis` of animals and flowers to create excellent Chikankari designs. The techniques of the embroidery of Uttar Pradesh include printing the desired design on the fabric with wooden blocks, using fugitive colours. These colours are commonly made by mixing a glue and indigo with water. Sometimes brass-blocks are used for extra fine designs on the embroidery base. According to the methods of this Chikankari embroidery of Uttar Pradesh, separate stitches are done to give a different appeal to the creations. The darn stitch is worked on rough cotton fabric to fill angular designs and to cover the surface of the fabric. On the other hand satin stitching is preferred for delicate fabrics like silk, muslin, or linen. In chikan some stitches are done from the other side of the fabric, while others are worked from the right side. This embroidery compels the artisans to follow separate stitches for separate designs according to the set method of this embroidery work. One stitch will not replace the other for any purpose. Separate artisans are engaged for separate stitching like open work or `jaali` is not done by embroiderers who do the filling work.
The embroidery of Uttar Pradesh involves at least 40 stitches of which about 30 are still practiced while creating excellent Chikan embroidery work. The stitches are of three types like flat stitches, raised and embossed stitches, and the open trellis-like `jaali` work. Some of the stitches that are used in Chikankari work include Taipchi, Pechni, Pashni, Bakhia. This Bakhia is of two types like Ulta Bakhia and Sidhi Bakhia. The floats of thread lie on the surface of the fabric and is used to fill the forms. Another is the Khatao, khatava or katava which is a cutwork or appliqué and a distinct type of technique, used in the embroidery work of Uttar Pradesh. Inclusive of all stitches, some other stitches like Gitti, Jangira, Murri, Phanda, Jaalis etc are included to this embroidery work. The artisans follow some steps to give the Chikan embroidery a unique form and style. On the primary level, the fabric is cut by the tailor into the required garment shape. Then the basic pre-embroidery stitching is done so that the correct shape is available to the block-printer to plan the placement of the design. The design is printed on the semi-stitched garment with fugitive colours, and the embroidery of the garment is then begun. Then the garments of pieces of clothes on which Chikan embroidery is done are washed properly. The washing is done in a bhatti, after which the garment is starched and ironed. The entire matter takes one to six months to make a complete item after which the embroidered pieces are sold to market for selling.
The embroidery of Uttar Pradesh has attained a distinct position in the world market due to the fine and intricate workmanship of the artisans. A predominant art form of Uttar Pradesh, Chikan work has its centers at Bhopal and Calcutta besides Allahabad, Varanasi and Lucknow.
This footage is part of the professionally-shot broadcast stock footage archive of Wilderness Films India Ltd., the largest collection of HD imagery from South Asia. The Wilderness Films India collection comprises of tens of thousands of hours of high quality broadcast imagery, mostly shot on HDCAM 1080i High Definition, HDV and XDCAM. Write to us for licensing this footage on a broadcast format, for use in your production! We are happy to be commissioned to film for you or else provide you with broadcast crewing and production solutions across South Asia. We pride ourselves in bringing the best of India and South Asia to the world... Reach us at wfi @ vsnl.com and [email protected].
The embroidery of Uttar Pradesh includes several processes and stitches that are needed to make the embroidery work a unique piece. The `bel` or creeper is the most commonly used design. The artisans prefer to create individual motifs or `butis` of animals and flowers to create excellent Chikankari designs. The techniques of the embroidery of Uttar Pradesh include printing the desired design on the fabric with wooden blocks, using fugitive colours. These colours are commonly made by mixing a glue and indigo with water. Sometimes brass-blocks are used for extra fine designs on the embroidery base. According to the methods of this Chikankari embroidery of Uttar Pradesh, separate stitches are done to give a different appeal to the creations. The darn stitch is worked on rough cotton fabric to fill angular designs and to cover the surface of the fabric. On the other hand satin stitching is preferred for delicate fabrics like silk, muslin, or linen. In chikan some stitches are done from the other side of the fabric, while others are worked from the right side. This embroidery compels the artisans to follow separate stitches for separate designs according to the set method of this embroidery work. One stitch will not replace the other for any purpose. Separate artisans are engaged for separate stitching like open work or `jaali` is not done by embroiderers who do the filling work.
The embroidery of Uttar Pradesh involves at least 40 stitches of which about 30 are still practiced while creating excellent Chikan embroidery work. The stitches are of three types like flat stitches, raised and embossed stitches, and the open trellis-like `jaali` work. Some of the stitches that are used in Chikankari work include Taipchi, Pechni, Pashni, Bakhia. This Bakhia is of two types like Ulta Bakhia and Sidhi Bakhia. The floats of thread lie on the surface of the fabric and is used to fill the forms. Another is the Khatao, khatava or katava which is a cutwork or appliqué and a distinct type of technique, used in the embroidery work of Uttar Pradesh. Inclusive of all stitches, some other stitches like Gitti, Jangira, Murri, Phanda, Jaalis etc are included to this embroidery work. The artisans follow some steps to give the Chikan embroidery a unique form and style. On the primary level, the fabric is cut by the tailor into the required garment shape. Then the basic pre-embroidery stitching is done so that the correct shape is available to the block-printer to plan the placement of the design. The design is printed on the semi-stitched garment with fugitive colours, and the embroidery of the garment is then begun. Then the garments of pieces of clothes on which Chikan embroidery is done are washed properly. The washing is done in a bhatti, after which the garment is starched and ironed. The entire matter takes one to six months to make a complete item after which the embroidered pieces are sold to market for selling.
The embroidery of Uttar Pradesh has attained a distinct position in the world market due to the fine and intricate workmanship of the artisans. A predominant art form of Uttar Pradesh, Chikan work has its centers at Bhopal and Calcutta besides Allahabad, Varanasi and Lucknow.
This footage is part of the professionally-shot broadcast stock footage archive of Wilderness Films India Ltd., the largest collection of HD imagery from South Asia. The Wilderness Films India collection comprises of tens of thousands of hours of high quality broadcast imagery, mostly shot on HDCAM 1080i High Definition, HDV and XDCAM. Write to us for licensing this footage on a broadcast format, for use in your production! We are happy to be commissioned to film for you or else provide you with broadcast crewing and production solutions across South Asia. We pride ourselves in bringing the best of India and South Asia to the world... Reach us at wfi @ vsnl.com and [email protected].
Report form
RELATED VIDEOS
